A chapter closed at the French luxury house Hermès on Saturday as Véronique Nichanian presented her final menswear collection after a remarkable 37-year tenure as its designer. The 71-year-old is preparing to pass the creative baton to her appointed successor, British designer Grace Wales Bonner.
The show, held at the Palais Brongniart during Paris Fashion Week, attracted a notably star-studded audience for a brand famous for its understated, celebrity-light approach. Attendees included R&B star Usher, who mingled with Hermès executive chairman Axel Dumas, alongside designer Paul Smith, rapper Travis Scott, and actors James McAvoy and Chace Crawford.
The collection itself was a testament to Nichanian’s enduring signature: refined, luxurious sportswear. Models showcased pieces in a sophisticated palette of navy, black, and taupe, featuring silk turtlenecks paired with leather trousers. Outerwear was detailed with leather patches and sumptuous shearling linings. Standout looks included a striking suit crafted from shiny khaki crocodile skin.
In a reflective touch, the designer incorporated archival pieces, such as a topstitched navy leather suit from her 2003 collection and a mocha calfskin jumpsuit from 1991, blending them with new flashes of color in orange and yellow jackets. As Nichanian walked the runway at the show’s close, she received a heartfelt standing ovation from the assembled crowd.
This runway moment marks a rare and significant transition for a brand built on unwavering consistency. Wales Bonner, named to the role last October and set to debut her first collection in January, will make history as the first Black woman to lead a major fashion house, making the succession one of the season’s most closely watched developments.
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